Teacher Bai Yingze can be said to be an old friend of the watch family. Teacher Bai has a deep understanding of the overall history and development of the world’s watch industry. The current situation of the watch industry maintains a sober understanding; this time the watch exhibition watch family was fortunate to invite Teacher Bai to share with you the exhibition experience, let us follow the steps of Teacher Bai to watch this exhibition together.
The first brand Mr. Bai saw today was Richard Miller. The most impressive thing about him was the model 51-02 swirl tourbillon and 19-02 flower tourbillon. These two watches are particularly interesting. The dial of the Vortex Tourbillon is made of diamonds as ‘vortex’, and then the tourbillon is in the middle, which is exactly combined with the concept of ‘vortex’, and the ‘wheel’ (Tourbillon) is the center of the vortex.
Feel the tourbillon sinking into the center of the vortex. The flower tourbillon is just the opposite, its tourbillon will rise! A magnolia flower, among the green leaves, the petals can be opened and closed every five minutes, and his petals can be held up. When blooming, the stamens of the petals will come up. It’s amazing.
Mr. Bai said, ‘Now women’s watches are getting better and better, and the women’s watch market is getting better and better. Many brands this year, including Richard Miller, have made girls’ watches, adding a lot of interesting elements, such as animals Design elements such as flowers and flowers. But the price is very high. The price of the swirl tourbillon is very expensive, which is about 650,000 Swiss francs, and the flower tourbillon is about 800,000 Swiss francs. It is particularly worth noting that Richard Miller now himself It’s very expensive to make a strap and make it by yourself. Generally brands do n’t explain the strap specifically. If you hear a brand keep talking about his strap, you must spend a lot of time on the strap. It’s cost-effective to make. The watch band usually has a special watch band factory. Now, Richard Miller’s metal watch band is very exquisite. Many new technologies have been used. In fact, last year SIHH said that Richard Miller had already said Once, but it wasn’t completely done at that time. This year, it’s all done. ‘
IWC is one of the most eye-catching brands today. Teacher Bai said, ‘Because this year is the 75th anniversary of IWC’s Portuguese series, three new self-made movements have been made, which are 42, 69, 52 (of which 52 is a movement made for complex watches), which meets the trend that everyone hopes that brands will make their own movements. The homemade movements will be more refined in terms of functions, appearance, polishing and decoration. The models will be targeted at The self-made movement makes a better fit design. Especially since this year’s model has caught the 75th anniversary, it will perform better regardless of the product and the market. ‘
Koperfus is this year’s 10th anniversary. Teacher Bai said, ‘The brand has demonstrated a history of technologically stunning tourbillons for ten years. This brand has done a good job in the past, but it has been relatively few in the past two years. .Mr. Forsey and Mr. Dufour co-taught a watchmaker student from France, passing on their watchmaking skills. They will work together to produce a student that is not bad, and their teaching watch is also launched, which is very cool, I’m going to check it out. ‘
Regarding Piaget, he said: ‘Each count puts forward the ultra-thin concept, the king of ultra-thin and so on. Piaget’s new ultra-thin chronograph 883P this year will definitely be a popular on the market. Very light, looks simple and concise, and the chronograph is very comfortable to operate. It is the chronograph with the column wheel, the thinnest chronograph now, and the gold watch from Piaget. It looks like Really great! ‘
Speaking of Roger Dubuis, teacher Bai said: ‘If from the perspective of technological innovation, Roger Dubuis has not launched a new movement this year, and you can’t see any new ideas. So where is the selling point this time, In the appearance of the watch, many architectural arts are incorporated into it, and the colors are more abundant. ‘
Speaking of the best watch on the first day, Mr. Bai said, ‘The two brands that are attracting attention today must be Lange and Vacheron Constantin. Lange has two main highlights this time: the first is three questions. ‘ Owl ‘(ZEITWERK),’ Owl ‘is already very popular in the market, and it is selling well. Many people thought it was strange and disliked at the beginning, but its market performance was good, many people wanted .
The three-question owl introduced this time is very characteristic, the general gong is round. And according to the characteristics of the dial of the owl, the tap of the gong is made into two notches. So this table hammer is knocked inward. I listened to the sound, and the sound quality was good, but I felt the sound was slightly lower, the scene might be too noisy, or the sample table was not real. But in any case this watch is very eye-catching and very good. It also uses a special decimal question method. In addition, Lange proposed that this year marks the 200th anniversary of Lange’s watchmaking skills, which began from 1815 when Mr. Lange was born. So there may be special commemorative models next? ‘
‘In addition to Lange, it is particularly worth mentioning that Vacheron Constantin has launched two new series of products this year. The first is Vacheron Constantin’s new series of chronographs. Previously we always criticized Vacheron Constantin’s lack of a homemade chronograph movement. There is also a relatively weak field of sports watches. Now, Vacheron Constantin has made up for this shortfall. Vacheron Constantin chronograph has been developed for seven years (the ultrathin three-minute repeater of the previous year took five years of research and development). , You can imagine how much the brand has changed in the last ten years after its 250th anniversary, so it is a very influential and rising brand among the big brands. ‘This year is the 260th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin.
‘The seven years of research and development by Vacheron Constantin are really worthy of watch fans all over the world. It can be said that everything is done in the field of chronographs. From simple chronographs to women’s chronographs to double chasing complex timing A stopwatch has everything. One of the stopwatches is equipped with a dual-track movement, which is the thinnest in the world, the key is automatic, and the beauty of the movement is even more amazing. This shows us the great technological development strength of a big brand. . Of course, there is the Arca clock. Its prototype design is a clock in 1933. If you look at the clock at that time, you must not imagine that it is the clock in 1933. From the look of it, the 1933 clock The table clock should be a modern, up-to-date table clock, all sides are transparent, that is, the movement is completely exposed. ‘
‘This brand new clock released by Vacheron Constantin this year uses a new movement with 30 days of power. I want to emphasize that if you buy this clock, you will not only buy a very good clock from Vacheron Constantin, but also A rare treasure, because its shell is made of natural crystal, and it is a whole piece of crystal. It is difficult to obtain the whole piece of crystal. When you look at the side of the clock, it looks like it has angle Broken lines, in fact, are traces of natural crystals. Vacheron Constantin may use various natural crystals in the making of Arca clocks. So in addition to its Hamony chronograph, I am particularly impressed with this time. ‘
‘I came down one day today and saw about seven brands, and I feel that they are in line with what I expected a year or two ago: when the market makes adjustments, the brand will not have many big changes. New product launches are not so violent. Although In the past year or so, the luxury watch market has not been very satisfactory. However, in terms of the spread of watch culture and art, it is still very hot. The Geneva watch exhibition was originally doing the spread and display of watch culture and art. ‘ Mao Zhuang)